Image: Agathe Poupeney/Photoscene.

The palace of Louis XIV will provide a fabulous backdrop for Olympic and Paralympic horse sport at the 2024 Paris Games, with organisers confirming that all equestrian events (dressage, eventing, jumping, Para-dressage and the modern pentathlon) will take place at Versailles. What better time to look back on this article about the Great Stables at the Equestrian Arts Academy of the Grande Écurie, Château de Versailles...

By Michelle Terlato

AS THE BEAUTIFUL Venetian Murano glass chandeliers dim, the audience quietens and expectations rise, I find I have to pinch myself to believe that I am here in the Great Stables of the Palace of Versailles. I am seated in the riding hall of the great Sun King, Louis XIV, about to experience a unique equine theatre performance.

After a long, hot day exploring the nearby Chateau de Versailles and its gardens and parks, most travellers head back to Paris. However, there is a lesser known attraction for equine lovers to enjoy just across the road from the palace. The Equestrian Arts Academy of the Grande Écurie of the Château de Versailles is a hidden gem opposite the magnificent chateau and gardens. After crossing the road from the palace, the stable complex comes into view behind a horseshoe-shaped courtyard that is surrounded with breathtaking facades of the grand stables and a training and warm-up sand arena at the front entrance.

Incredibly, these stables were built in the period 1678-82 during Louis XIV’s record reign and his lifelong obsession with building and rebuilding the Chateau and its gardens. History shows that they once held the king’s saddle horses and the riding school was where young people from the province came to receive the training they required to become officers in the royal armies. Along with horse riding, they learned how to be “perfect gentlemen”; singing, fencing, dancing, appreciating music and drawing. They are still requirements that today’s performers at the stables must have.

Image: Victor Tonelli.

This “equine corps de ballet” theatre company was founded in 2003 by the French celebrity horse trainer, impresario and performer, Barbatas. Eager to pass on his artistic knowhow, he established the Académie Equestre de Versailles. His performance and training establishment welcomes horsemen and women from around the world who come to work under Bartabas's patient, passionate leadership. This school and company combines teachings of equestrian knowledge and the practice of other disciplines such as fencing, dance, singing and kyudo, a traditional Japanese form of archery.

The arena is adorned with mirrors and takes on the look and feel of a ballroom rather than an equestrian arena. Adorning the walls are wooden sculptures and charcoal sketches of horses that look almost medieval. As the show starts, three kyudo archers come out to a rhythmic drumbeat and give an impressive traditional display of their archery. For the next hour and 20 minutes the show ebbs and flows from gentle moments to an often energetic pace. The performers display a range of ground in-hand moves from long-reining to cattle-reining. There is dressage, fencing, dancing, singing and an amazing display of choreography all executed to perfection in a small but intimate arena with beautiful lighting and baroque music.

The lighting effects and execution of the manoeuvres is faultless, and, together with the lovely colourful traditional costumes designed by Belgian designer, Dries van Noten, and the unique and elegant saddles designed and made by Hermes, create an ethereal atmosphere. One of the highlights of the show is the free horse segment where four horses incredibly are set free in the arena but all still perform their playful rolls, chases, mutual grooming and gallops. It’s a delight to watch and brings a smile to everyone’s faces, horse lovers and theatre buffs alike.

Image: Agathe Poupeney/Photoscene.

Around 40 horses now live in the royal stables of the Chateau de Versailles and most are the Lusitanian breed. Their distinct cream-coloured coat and their blue eyes were said to be greatly admired by King Louis XIV. The stables include other horses, such as Argentine Criollos, black Arab Thoroughbreds, one Shire horse, an Andalusian and a Quarter Horse.

Image: Alfons Alt.

After the show, audience members are welcome to visit and wander through the Royal Stables where you can see the staff attending to their horses’ every need in the magnificent domed ceiling stables. There are stunning light-fittings, beautiful artworks, exquisite ironwork and each horse has their name, breed and date of birth on an ironwork plaque above their stable. These horses do not know how privileged they are!

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